Bailey trail trek is not all about crossing only high altitude passes, it’s also about gaining knowledge of local Monpa Tribes, abandoned army bunkers etc. Intially you will trek through the dense forests of pine and Rhododendrons with the view of snowcladed peaks in between.
Then, all of a sudden you will enter into a valley near third campsite just beside the river and you will always be in the constant custody of River for next 3 days.
During this trek, you will cross all total 5 mountain passes and among them 4 passes will be above 4000 M.
You will discover 2 Alpine lakes at the altitude of 4500 M.
Our Story
We, the team of Banzaras, were searching for a high altitude offbeat trail. North east was my first choice and what can be a better option than Arunachal. Mr. Bailey showed us the way though there was not much information available over internet. We found a local contact from an old blog and luckily he agreed to be our guide. Depending upon the locals is the best risk you can take in hills.
Day 0: We boarded Arunachal AC SF express from New Coochbehar to Rangapara North in Assam. The whole journey was a test of patience. The train was 4 hours late.
Day 1: We reached Rangapara north around 5.30 am and took an auto to Balipara. We managed to get 4 seats in a shared sumo for Bomdila. It passed through Pakke tiger reserve. We stopped for breakfast midway and reached Bomdila around 12pm. Our guide Sonamji was waiting at Bomdila. It was raining from morning so no car was ready to go to Lagaam due to bad road condition. We managed to book a car but he dropped us at Chander almost 8km before Lagaam. It was already late afternoon so we decided to stay there for the night in a workers’ hut.
Best Time to Visit
This trek is only accessible during Mid April- Mid June and Mid Sept- Oct. Best time to visit April end to enjoy the blooming of Rhododendrons.
Eligibility:
- Previous high altitude trekking experience is must.
- The climber must be fit and have sufficient stamina to cover 5 km of distance in 30 minutes without a stress.
- The climber should be able to carry personal backpack.
- Heart problem, high blood pressure, asthma, and epilepsy cannot be reconciled on this mission. The climber must not have the conditions mentioned above.
How to Book?
Team Banzaras have opened slots for this trek from the month of November. They had the best arrangements for this trek, professional guide, medical facilities, delicious food during the trek as I have made all arrangements through them.
Day 2: We woke up with a view of snow clad peaks and it worked like a booster. Got freshen up and after a heavy breakfast we started for our first campsite Thungri. Weather was nice, drizzling in between and lush green mountains all around. We reached Lagaam mid afternoon and then another 4 km we came to a grassland with few bunkers scattered here and there. That is Thungri. We stayed in the forest guard’s hut. He readily gave the place to us. It started raining so we went inside and played cards for sometime. We helped our guide in cooking and wrapped up for the day.
Day 3: It was a foggy morning and temperature was low. We got a glimpse of snow peaks but unfortunately our guide didn’t know the names. After having sandwiches we started for the day. We were walking through the clouds and it felt like we stepped into Narnia. Red, pink, white, yellow rhododendrons all around, age old trees covered with thick moss and no trace of anyone except we four. We were brimming with joy but it didn’t last long. Soon it started raining. We had to continue to reach our next campsite Changla top (3760m). It was raining cats and dogs. Our shoes were completely wet and we couldn’t move fast. Meanwhile our guide and horses crossed us. They need to collect woods for fire. We crossed Changla pass but still no sign of our campsite. One of us started feeling sick and he was in no condition to continue. He took shelter in one of the deserted bunker. There was thick fog all around, no visibility at all. I forgot to mention there was a 5th member, Tshobi the dog. He was our only hope. He showed us the way and finally another 300 meter we met our guide. It was so cold we hurried towards the fire. Our guide and the porter went down to bring the other guy. He was not feeling well at all and went straight inside his sleeping bag. The fire saved us. We dried our shoes and socks, had soup and felt much better. It was a tiring day because of the heavy rain. We had early dinner and went to sleep.
Day 4: Changla was a beautiful campsite with a mini lake nearby. We four started with all our energy for Porshing La (4200m). It was a steep inclination and I probably had AMS. I was losing my breath continuously and felt a slight chest pain. Then I started vomiting. We all reached Porshing La. Few snow patches here and there and it was foggy so we didn’t get the view of Mt. Gorichen. After certain descent, we reached another pass Pangi La (3950m). Meanwhile, I vomited again and I couldn’t even able to intake water. Luckily, there was no more ascent that day but we had to continue long for our next campsite, Potok. There was no single grain of food left in my stomach but still dragging my body anyhow. At one point, we reached a top from where we can see the river and beautiful dense pine forest with floating clouds. It was so beautiful, I felt peace at once. We crossed a bridge and on the other side there was an army camp. We could have camped there but we didn’t want to deviate from our plan. We continued for few more hours but still no sign of Potok. Our guide stopped in a bunker before Potok and decided to camp there which was a wise decision. He came back in search of us and seeing my condition he was even ready to carry me on his shoulder. It was complete dark and in my mind I was continuously saying one more step. My body was not able to continue anymore and then finally I saw the smoke coming out of a bunker. I somehow managed to reach there thanks to my co-trekkers – two of my friends and my husband. I sat for few mins in front of the fire and went straight inside my sleeping bag.
Day 5: The long sleep was very much needed. I felt energized and hungry as well. It was a beautiful campsite with a tiny stream passing by joining the main stream at a distance with high mountains in the background. It was a sunny morning. There was pasta in the breakfast but I was afraid to have it. I had dry fruits and started with full energy. After continuing for one hour or so we reached Potok. It was a vast valley. Our guide told us now we have to continue by the side of the river and gradually ascent towards the snow peak. It was above 4500 m so I started losing my breath again. The weather condition was changing and instead of drizzle it was snow. We climbed further and heard one of our friends shouting. We continued and caught the slight of a glacial lake. It was magnificent. I continued slowly and finally reached Tche La. We were overwhelmed and started taking pictures afterall, it was the highest point of our trek. There was another lake near the pass. I was slightly relieved as we crossed the highest point so it will be descent only after that. But everyday had a surprise for us. Massive snowfall started soon it became all white. We started to descent first as it could be risky in that high altitude. The snowfall continued. I slipped while crossing a river and my shoes got completely wet. The trail passed through flat lands by the side of the river but it was difficult to move fast because of the heavy snowfall. Every 5 mins, there was a pile of snow over my shoulder. My feet were numb and freezing, my hands were paining. The trail became invisible due to snow and the light was low. I was praying for the snowfall to stop but it didn’t work. We walked and walked. When I was totally exhausted I heard Tshobi’s bark. We reached the bunker. I was shivering even the heat of the fire was not helping. I changed my clothes, put on some layers and went to sleep.
Day 6: It was a bright sunny day. Snow was melting and the whole landscape was changing from black & white to a colored one. The locals readily offered me tea & biscuits. I had one bite of sandwich and lots of dry fruits again (the secret of my energy 😜). Me & another guy started walking to cover as much as possible when the weather was favorable. The trail was marked with stones and we moved quite fast but we did one mistake. We were not carrying water. The water of the river was crystal clear, we can see each pebble in the bottom. We drank directly from the river. At one point three of us – me, my friend & Tshobi were drinking water from the river together. We crossed ITBP camps and got a gigantic view of snow clad mountains. Nice meadow with small yellow, purple flowers scattered here and there, high mountains at a distance, crystal clear river and deep blue sky – it was picture perfect. Then ascent started. We need to climb one hill and cross Jere La to reach Maago. Met army in between and they gave me apple & chocolate. How sweet of them! Again I started panting but slowly I continued. Weather became cloudy and started to drizzle. But as soon as I reached the top, the cloud got cleared and there was a mountain so close as if I could touch it. It was time to get some pictures. After Jere La, it was a very steep descent towards another river and Maago was at another side of the river. I was not even tired. We crossed the river and entered Monpa village, Maago. There was some puja going on. We got a traditional welcome and they insisted us to take some rest before proceeding to our stay of the day. We started walking and a local driver gave us a lift. It was a nice cozy stay with mountain view. There were attached bathrooms in each room and a well-equipped kitchen but there was no running water. We filled the drums from a tap beside the road. It was like a picnic. We played cards, cooked our meals and slipped inside the blankets.
Day 7: Our guide was arranging a pick up van to drop us till Tawang but we found the rate quite high. Meanwhile, we had a bad experience while leaving the stay. They claimed more money and we had to pay as we were already having a hard time to find the vehicle. We left Maago with a bitter heart. We boarded the pick up van along with few locals and after few mins all the bitterness just vanished. It was like a journey through heaven. It was a bumpy off road passing by the army camps and checkposts. I don’t even have the words to describe the beauty – pine forest, rhododendrons, waterfalls, snow peaks and what not. We reached a point where everything was white and there was completely frozen Gonkar La lake. Also this Mountain pass at the altitude of 15568ft is known as Gonkar La. A hidden beauty in Arunachal Pradesh. Every penny and all the troubles we went through was nothing compared to the beauty we witnessed. It was a roller-coaster ride. We four lay down resting our head on the rucksacks to get maximum support and the view was like watching Discovery Channel on a giant screen. It was late afternoon when we were finally on a proper road and entered civilization. Two more hours and we reached Tawang. We found it a bit crowded obviously. One thing, in Tawang you will hardly get cash in any ATM. We spent the evening gorging local food and booked bus tickets for Guwahati.
Day 8: After breakfast, we boarded the bus for Guwahati. The bus went through Sela Paas and snowfall started. The whole day passed staring out of the window. Around late afternoon, we crossed Dirang. We had a 40 mins break for dinner and continued towards Guwahati. For your information, to reach Guwahati from Tawang, you can get share cabs or bus, share cab leaves early in the morning at around 4 am and reach Guwahati by evening. But, bus will leave around 10.30 am and will reach Guwahati next day early morning. Its better to get your tickets done one day before your journey. There are many shops operated by travel agency where you can book share car seats. For bus ticket booking for Tawang to Guwahati or vice versa you can call at +91-8974009997.
Day 9: The bus was on time and reached Guwahati at 5am in the morning. We ended our trip by visiting Kamakhya Temple. We boarded the overnight train from Guwahati.
This trip gave us more than we expected and we are now in love with Arunachal.
How to Reach at basecamp?
Bomdilla is easily connected with Guwahati and Tezpur. Nearest Railway station is Rangapara North Railway station which is nearest to Tezpur. Nearest airport is Guwahati Airport. Make your plan such a way that you can take night hault at Tezpur which is around 3-4 hours away from Bomdila so that you can reach Bomdila on Day 1 before 1 pm as all the share cars leave from Tezpur early in the morning. Bomdila is around 7-8 hours away from Guwahati and 4 hours away from Tezpur. Every day share cars are leaving from Tezpur for Bomdila starting from 5 am. If you are reaching to Rangapara North Junction, then you have to reach to Balipara Bus stand where you will get share cabs to Bomdila.
About the author :
I am Madhurima, a software engineer by profession and a banzara by heart. Infected with life and traveling is my medicine. Don’t go by the names, sometimes a place you have never heard of before, can give you a lifetime experience. Take the risk, get out of your comfort zone, feel the adrenaline rush. I am here to share my stories and you can find some really helpful information.
Note: We always say everyone to travel responsibly and safely along with respect Nature and local cultures. Don’t leave your plastic wastage in the hills, leave only your footprints there. Save Nature, save animals, save our planet. So get out of your comfort zone, start to explore the new and be #banzaras.
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