Want an alternative to Sandakphu trek as it became a bit overcrowded and trekking routes have been converted into pucca road, Right? Phokteydara can be the best alternative to it as it offers trekking through virgin forest with more adventure during the journey along with the clear view of Sleeping Buddha. Also you will experience staying in a camp under the stars during this trek.
Our Story
The month was December’20 and one of my friend told me to plan for some trek at the end of December as we want to end this year with a great memory and the people were also healing from Covid-19 and also the restrictions have been lifted. So we finally planned for Phokteydara trek and booked all the tickets. Yes of course, it would be my responsibility as I would be leading this trek having earlier high altitude trek experience and made all the arrangements. As per our plan I reached Uttarey village, base camp of Phokteydara trek on 24th December’20 evening, to explore around this village and to check all the arrangements. My cousin brother, Sanket, my two friends, Prithwi and Saikat, and Souravi Di, cousin elder sister of Saikat, had reached Uttarey in the evening on 26th of December’2020.
Next day, we all went for acclimatized hiking throughout the village, had some momos in the afternoon and enjoyed a beautiful bonfire in the evening. I must say this acclimatized hiking is very important to start our trek from next day.
Best Time to Visit
November – January can be the best time to do phokteydara trek, due to clear sky, the chance is high enough for the best view of Sleeping Buddha with breathtaking sunrise and sunset.
Another time to do this phokteydara trek from Mid of March – Mid of May. As during the month of March and April this trail becomes full of Rhododendron flowers. One might experience snow during early of March.
How to Book?
Team Banzaras have opened slots for this trek in every year. They had the best arrangements for this trek, professional guide, medical facilities, delicious food during the trek as I have made all arrangements through them.
Early morning selfie at Achalley 
Way to Kalijhar with this view 
Sunset at Kalijhar Campsite
Well, you must be wondering, why this trek is the best alternative to Sandakphu trek, right? Keep patience, just read our story! So next day after breakfast, at around 9 am, we started our trek. We went through the dense forest of various species of flora. After ascending for around 3 hours, we witnessed the first glimpse of Mt. Kanchanjungha. We had our lunch at Uttarpani at around 2 pm and reached our first campsite Achalley (10,000 ft). It is a campsite just like your first night halt at Tumling of Sandakphu trek, where Sleeping Buddha can be seen in a clear weather, but the difference is your night stay will be in a tent for this trek. We had tea and soup after reaching our first campsite. We enjoyed the colour changing on Mt. Kanchanjungha and its ranges during sunset from this campsite and after so many days, when I was witnessing this, I felt like Oh! I should not leave this place. At around 7.30 pm we had our dinner as during trek it is better to have your dinner before 8pm and went to sleep.
Next day early morning I enjoyed sunrise from a mountain top after almost a year and yes finally I was waiting for this day! What a beautiful sunrise it was though we know at Phokteydara top it will be far better than this but I found peace finally after watching this and can’t wait to see what’s coming! So after breakfast we started our journey around 9 am. We descended for around 2 hours to reach Thulodhapp, a small valley surrounded by hills and Mt Kanchanjungha was still visible from here. We spent few times here by rlaxing our feet, body, mind and soul and had our lunch around 12 pm here. After light lunch, we started our continuous ascend up to Kalijhar campsite. This 5kms ascend might take 4-5 hours to reach the campsite. Though we took around 3-4 hours to reach here. This trail was full of Rhododendron trees, pines and small cactuses. Sleeping Buddha was continuously watching how we are climbing. When we reached Kalijhar I felt, why it is named like that. Because at this campsite, the wind velocity is like almost 30-40kms/hr , a small storm continuously flowing (jhar means storm). But after reaching, what we witnessed we cannot describe it with our own words. You should experience this once in a lifetime. We recommend kindly take proper layering to witness this beauty as the temperature during winter goes around -4 to -5 degC. Team Banzaras will guide you to carry proper layerings. Around 7 pm we finished our dinner as we have to wake up around 3-4 am to witness one of the most beautiful sunrise from the summit, which is 1km continuous steep from our campsite. Now you can compare Kalijhar campsite as Sandakphu. Even view is much better from Sandakphu itself, as you can enjoy Sleeping Buddha by just opening your tent door.
A big day for us! We all woke up around 3 am but the outside temperature is so much freezing that, we are afraid to get out of our tent. But somehow at around 3.30 am we got out and at that time what we have witnessed, we didn’t expect that. Actually it was full moon, and Sleeping Buddha was clearly shining with the moonlight, which we cannot describe with words. We, all ready for the summit and started our journey at around 3.45 am without our guide as he was still not ready and we don’t want to miss the sunrise from the summit. But after 15-20 minutes of walking we realized that we were in the wrong route, so we came back in the same route and then we found our guide was calling us. So after half an hour of continuous steep climb, we finally reached the summit around 4.45 am. What we witnessed over there, we could say that our every struggling worth it. One of the my most remarkable sunrises and for the first time, I had watched 4 out of 5 highest peaks in the world so closely. At around 7.30 am we returned at our Kalijhar camp. We go refreshed and after breakfast, we started our descend journey to Mainbass waterfall campsite. Indeed it was also a beautiful campsite just beside the river. But we were still missing the Kalijhar campsite. Next day we visited this beautiful waterfall and returned back to base before lunch. If anyone plan for only Uttarey, he/she might visit this waterfall in a day. The trail goes just beside the river. In the evening, we had bonfire and a trek success party at our basecamp. Next day, early morning we leave for NJP. Thus this phokteydara trek journey will remain forever in our memory and I choose to be a #Banzara.
About the author :
Hi, I am Shubhrojyoti Laha, a professional photographer, travel blogger, a Banzara from my heart, very much passionate about traveling and trekking to less explored places.
Note: We always say everyone to travel responsibly and safely along with respect Nature and local cultures. Don’t leave your plastic wastage in the hills, leave only your footprints there. Save Nature, save animals, save our planet. So get out of your comfort zone, start to explore the new and be #banzaras.
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